A Weekend in Wroclaw, Poland
A city known for its pastel-colored medieval Market Square, Wrocław, Poland is the perfect European city to explore over a weekend. For some, Poland might not even be on the travel radar, but my hope is that by the end of this article, you will see why Poland is perhaps one of the most underrated countries in Europe, if not the world, to visit.
Having lived in Berlin just over a year now, Poland is somewhere I’ve always wanted to visit, not only because we are neighboring countries but because my great-grandparents lived in Poland before immigrating to the United States.
Because Wrocław isn’t the most well-known city in Europe, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect but I was pleasantly surprised and would absolutely recommend it to anyone interested in visiting Poland. Wrocław is also a very affordable city. For example, for a traditional Polish dinner, I paid less than 9 USD, including a tip. Alright, so let’s dive into all that there is to do in Wrocław!
Experience Rynek
Rynek is the medieval Market Square at the center of Wrocław. The market was founded between 1214 and 1232 and is one of the largest market squares in all of Europe. I’d say it’s one of the most beautiful as well. The colorful, detailed architecture will take your breath away.
As you walk around the Market Square, take notice of all of the various styles of architecture. The city’s identity includes a myriad of influences. After the first settlement was built in the 9th century on Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski) which you’ll find more about below, Wrocław would go on to be ruled by Bohemia, the Habsburg Empire, Prussia, and Germany. So, you’ll see many of these different influences in the city’s architecture.
In the Market Square specifically, you’ll find the impressive Gothic-style town hall in the center and many other medieval marvels that were restored after being destroyed during the Second World War.
This is the prime location for people watching and you’ll find a myriad of restaurants and cafes here as well.
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Plac Solny
To the southwest corner of the Market Square, you’ll find Plac Solny, another charming, colorful square. Like the Market Square, this was built in the 13th century. Once a salt market, today, it’s a quaint flower market, perfect for browsing.
Find the Gnomes
These cheeky, little gnomes can be found scattered all over the city. They commemorate the mascot of the Orange Alternative, the anti-Soviet resistance movement who stood in opposition of the Communist regime in the 1980s. There are about 300 of them living throughout the city. Whether you go searching for them all or not, their presence is sure to bring a smile to your face.
Ostrów Tumski
Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) simply cannot be missed. On the northeastern side of the city center, you’ll find the oldest part of Wroclaw. Formerly an island, Ostrów Tumski is a delight to walk through and see all of the Baroque and Gothic architecture. The real gem is the giant Cathedral of John the Baptist which will greet you as you enter the island by walking across Tumski Bridge. Look for all of the colorful ‘love locks’ on either side of Tumski Bridge were couples leave their lock and throw away the key.
The real treat is spotting the lamplighter at dusk, dressed in his cape and top hat. Wroclaw is one of the only remaining cities to have gas lamps and so, 365 days a year you will find the lamplighter, at dusk, lighting each of the 103 gas lamps. A tradition that began in 1846, it’s been carried on to this day and is so charming and magical to witness.
Ostrow Tumski is the gem of Wrocław. The quiet, cobbled streets and pastel colors left me in awe and the views from the river are truly captivating at sunset as the golden sun casts its glow on the cathedrals.
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Get a bird’s-eye view
As I was reaching Wrocław before my trip, it seemed there were quite a few gorgeous viewpoints of the city from above. After looking into the different options, I decided to climb the nearly 400 steps up to Penitent Bridge, a bridge that connects the two towers of St. Mary Magdelene Church. I’m scared of heights and don’t know why this was the decision that I made instead of the other popular option, the Viewpoint Tower of the Garrison Church, which has a proper safety enclosure.
But that’s beside the point. St. Mary Magdelene’s Church was built in stages, starting in the year 1330. It’s a Gothic basilica and its two towers were topped with cupolas in 1481, which were later destroyed in WWII and never replaced. Inside, you’ll find some spooky yet beautiful tombstones and epitaphs. And then it’s time to climb to the top.
The climb to Penitent Bridge costs just 8zł and as I mentioned earlier, there are 400 steps to the top. Though my heart was pounding about halfway through, I was doing just fine as the stairwell is not a spiral staircase, so it wasn’t confined and there were platforms to stop off for a break. However, closer to the top (perhaps the last 100 steps or so) the steps change from solid concrete to a mesh metal that you could very clearly see through.
I had read about this so I had been warned but I wasn’t expecting there to be SO many see-through steps (at least three flights) where you could truly see people far down below or above you. It was definitely disorienting for someone like me with vertigo. So, just a warning.
I’m not sure what was scarier, the see-through steps or the open-air bridge 45-meters (150 feet) above ground. Though it was quite dizzying up there with just a railing on either side of the footbridge, the views on one side especially were lovely. In the end, I would say that if heights aren’t your best friend, it may be a bit tough to enjoy, unfortunately.
Park Staromiejski
I was walking past this park one summer afternoon. After hearing the sound of children laughing and seeing beautiful flowers in pink and purple hues, I decided to enter the large park gates. I’m so pleased that I did, as there I was, suddenly surrounded by large leafy trees and an array of richly-colored flora. The perfect escape from city life. Wrocław is full of surprises and beauty around every corner.
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Stare Jatki
Many medieval cities have their version of the shambles and this is Wroclaw’s. These are the Old Butchers’ Shops, established in the 13th century. There’s not much to see here but I thought the Memorial to Slaughtered Animals in Wrocław was a nice addition.
Getting There
If you’re arriving by bus or train, the city center is within an easy 20-minute walk. The bus and train stations are both new and fully modernized. I was very impressed (though I found the signage to find the Flix busses a bit confusing). Wrocław also has its own airport which is 13 km away and it’s about a 4-hour drive from both Berlin and Prague.
Where to stay
I stayed at the super central Mercure Wrocław Centrum which I highly recommend. I was within a 5-10 minute walk of everything I’ve mentioned above and an easy 18-minute walk from the train/bus station. The hotel is recently renovated, the 5th floor has a lovely deck that looks out over an old cathedral, and the restaurant seemed to be a popular choice, though I didn’t dine there myself.
Or, if you prefer something a little more local, use Airbnb! Get up to $38 off your first trip when you sign-up for Airbnb through my link.
Where to Eat
NANAN: For coffee and treats and a beautiful pink interior.
Chatka przy Jatkach: Just down the street, you’ll find a cosy restaurant with the best Polish meal I’ve ever had. For traditional food, you’ll want to head here, away from the more touristy restaurants in the Market Square. I ordered the Gołąbki (stuffed cabbage) with tomato sauce and it blew my mind!
Targowa: For local craft beer and traditional Polish food with a modern twist. I ordered the traditional pierogi here and couldn’t have been happier. The tenderest dough stuffed with cheese and potatoes. A “must” for any visit to Poland! While you’re here, check out the Wrocław Market Hall (though check their times as they don’t stay open too late).
Nasza Paczkarnia: For piping hot doughnuts stuffed with different fillings. This Polish pastry is called a Pączki. Though they do have that doughnut taste, they’re far bigger and even more delicious than your typical doughnut. They make them here with fresh dough on-site. Try one. You won’t regret it!
I hope you now see why I think Poland is truly such an underrated country and why Wrocław should not be missed. From its culture to its stunning architecture and friendly people, I was captivated by every ounce of what Poland’s fourth-largest city had to offer.
To see more of my European adventures, come say “hi” on Instagram @ChelseaDinen. I’d love to hear from you if you plan a trip to Wrocław!
