The Ultimate Guide to Copenhagen
Getting There
Chances are, you’ll be flying into Copenhagen Airport (CPH). It’s a beautiful airport and every sign is in English, making navigation easy and quick. The easiest way to get into central Copenhagen is by taking the metro. If you buy a Copenhagen Card (more on that below) you get unlimited travel on public transportation which includes trains, buses, metro and
Recommended Reading: A Day Trip from Copenhagen to Malmö, Sweden
From the arrivals gate, proceed to the Metro by following the signs. Here, you can use the machines to purchase your ticket. The ticket machines allow you to select English. It’s a simple 15-minute ride from the airport. Google Maps should tell you which stop to get off but the most central stops are Nørreport, Kongens Nytorv and Christianshavn, depending on where you want to go.
The Copenhagen Card
If you’re planning to visit many of the museums and cultural attractions that Copenhagen has to offer, I strongly encourage you to consider purchasing a Copenhagen Card during your stay. The Copenhagen Card allows you to save money and time by granting you admission to 86 attractions and museums as well as unlimited public transportation. The majority of the most popular attractions such as Tivoli Gardens, Rosenborg Castle, Amalienborg Palace, Canal Tours Copenhagen, the Round Tower, and the National Museum are included.
You can buy a card that’s valid for 24, 48, 72, or 120 hours.
Click here for a list of the attractions included with the Copenhagen Card.
Personally, I really loved the ease of having a Copenhagen Card. I could just walk right up to any museum or bus and show my card. You are limited to one visit per attraction but I didn’t find that to be a problem. I only wish I had more time to explore more of the attractions!
They validated the card there for me so that I was able to begin using it to get from the airport to my accommodations.
You can either pre-order the card online here and pick it up upon arrival, or do what I did and just buy it at the airport. Now, it’s a little tricky to find the office where you will buy the Copenhagen Card. Once you leave the arrivals area, if you’re staring up at the escalators, walk to the right of the escalators which will take you down a corridor leading to several gates. Once you’ve been walking for a minute or two, there will be an information desk on the left side of the hall. I just walked up and asked them if that was where I could buy the Copenhagen Card and they smiled and were happy to help. You could also buy the card online and have it shipped to your home address but that could take up to a month.
I also downloaded the free ‘CPH Card’ app which made it easy to see all of the included attractions on the map.
Where to Stay
Copenhagen is a rather compact city. It’s easy to get around the city either by bike (a very popular method of transportation amongst locals, as you will see!) or by foot.
Indre By: Most of the attractions are located in the heart of the city called Indre By. Here, you will find Nyhavn, the beautiful harbor with colorful buildings, Tivoli Gardens, and Strøget, the pedestrian-only shopping district.
Nørrebro: Just across the Louise Bridge from Indre By is Nørrebro. This is the neighborhood I stayed in and fell in love with. You’re still close to the city’s main tourist attractions yet you’ll be amongst international markets and independent coffee shops. It’s a much more local feel here and if you’re looking for that truly local experience, I recommend staying at the beautifully-designed Airbnb below which is where I stayed. Receive $28 off your first Airbnb stay when you sign up through my link here!
Vesterbro: Once the roughest area of town (and Copenhagen’s former Red Light District) this area is now the hip, happening neighborhood of Copenhagen. Located just outside the city center Vesterbro is home to some of Copenhagen’s newest restaurants, art galleries, bars, and shops.
Hotels
If you’re looking for a lovely hotel to experience both Danish design and hygge, I recommend either
What to Eat
If you’re looking for Copenhagen’s Michelin-starred restaurants, I can’t help you there. What I can help you with is the best street food and food markets that you shouldn’t miss. Because I like to pack a lot into my trips, I prefer to find delicious food that won’t eat up too much of my time. Pun intended ;) Occasionally, I’ll opt for a slower schedule and find a nice place to sit down for a while but on my recent trip to Copenhagen, I took advantage of Copenhagen’s incredible food halls and street vendors.
You can also book a guided food tour like this one so you can sit back, relax, and enjoy the tasty Danish treats!
Torvehallerne
I loved this food market so much that I stopped by numerous times throughout my trip to Copenhagen. Torvehallerne has over 60 stands that sell everything from fresh fish to scrumptious pastries and desserts. There are actually two separate halls with a little courtyard in the middle so don’t miss the other side! There are chairs situated around most eateries in case you want to sit down and enjoy a meal. Otherwise,
Some of my favorite stands here are:
+ Coffee Collective (said to be some of the best coffee in Copenhagen)
+ Smag: Offering healthy salads and sandwiches served on delicious bread
+ La Boca: Freshly-prepared Argentinian empanadas are a must-try! I got one with pumpkin and the dipping sauce was delicious.
Though I didn’t get a chance to try them, I’ve heard Porridge is amazing as well as pizza from Gorm’s!
Tivoli Food Hall
Open year-round, this funky food hall right next to the main entrance of Tivoli Gardens is filled with incredible (albeit pricy) food options!
What I tried at Tivoli Food Hall:
Hallernes Smørrebrød:
Traditional smørrebrød with a focus on seasonal fresh produce. I tried the shrimp salad smørrebrød and it was delicious and filling!
Cock’s & Cows:
With several locations throughout CPH, this is the place to go for burgers and fries (vegan & vegetarian options as well!) Their twister fries are the best I’ve had.
Cafes & Bakeries
MORMORS
When you walk by this cafe and see its charming interior through the windows, you’ll immediately want to stop in for a treat. I
Sankt Peders Bageri
Dating back to 1652, Sankt Peders Bageri is the oldest bakery in Copenhagen. Let me start by saying that cinnamon rolls (
I had the best pastry of my life here. I’d call it a “danish” but it turns out, “danish” isn’t a term Danes use to describe their pastries. Either way, if you see a flaky croissant-like pastry with custard in the middle, like the one pictured below, try it!
What to Do
Experience Hygge
Hygge
Check out some of the cafes and bakeries I mentioned or go on a tour while you’re in Copenhagen such as this Hygge and Happiness Cultural Tour.
Rosenborg Castle
Rosenborg Castle was built by Christian IV in 1606 in the Dutch Renaissance style. When you take a tour of the castle, you’ll see the beautiful thrones of the king and queen, protected by three life-sized silver lions, as well as the family. Most impressive of all are the two royal crows, the queen’s crown, and the family jewels which are kept in the underground treasury with meter-thick walls.
Check the hours before you plan your visit as during the colder months, the castle is only open from 10:00 am – 3:00 pm. I was a bit disappointed with my visit to Rosenborg Castle to be honest. The information provided about each room was very limited. You receive a complimentary map that has a small blurb about each room. Compared to other palaces I’ve visited, this left a lot to be desired.
The King’s Garden
Whether you take a tour of the Rosenborg Castle or not, you definitely ought to visit the King’s Garden which surrounds the castle. The oldest and most-visited park in Copenhagen, this sprawling green park is beautiful any time of year. Don’t miss the rose garden!
Changing of the Guards at Amalienborg Palace
While I was in Copenhagen, one of the most special moments occurred as I was walking to Amalienborg Palace for the changing of the guard ceremony. It was 11:45 am and as I was waiting to cross the street, all of a sudden, there they were marching in front of me — The Danish Royal Guards. Every day at 11:30 am, the guards leave Rosenborg Castle and march through the streets until they arrive at Amalienborg Palace, the winter home of the Danish Royal family.
I arrived at the palace just before noon where everyone was lined up waiting for the ceremony but little did they know that the real magical moment was seeing them marching through the streets of Copenhagen. So, here’s a little secret: wait at the corner of Strøget and Kristen Bernikows Gade between 11:30-11:45. Or, you can wait near Kongens Nytorv to see the Danish Royal Guard marching along the route to Amalienborg Palace.
When the Queen is in residence, the guard is accompanied by the Royal Guards music band.
Marble Church
While you’re at Amalienborg Palace, cross to the other side of Bredgade and visit Frederiks Kirke (Frederik’s Church) popularly known as the Marble Church. The foundation stone was set by king Frederick V in 1749 but due to budget cuts and various other setbacks, the church sat in ruins for 150 years until construction one day resumed and was finished in 1894. The beautiful copper green dome is the largest church dome in Scandinavia. I loved the warm, cosy feelings inside the church. The lighting in the evening is exquisite. A hygge moment at Frederiks Kirke :)
Round Tower
You may have seen photos taken from the inside of the Round Tower (Rundetaarn). Its equestrian staircase, which is a 7.5-turn spiral ramp, leads you to the top of the tower. Inside, you’ll also find a library that once housed the entire book collection of the university. Hans Christian Andersen used to visit the library where he found inspiration for his writing. Built in the 17th century, it’s the oldest functioning observatory in Europe. The view from the top is incredible. You can even see the Øresund Bridge to Sweden from up there. This is a must-see! Truly a unique experience.
Glyptotek
This was one of the best museums I’ve ever been to and definitely the most beautiful. The collection is built from the impressive personal collection of Carl Jacobsen, the son of the founder of the Carlsberg Breweries. What makes this museum so magical, despite its numerous rooms showcasing some of the most beautiful Greek and Roman marble sculpture I’ve ever seen, is the way the museum harmoniously combines art with the stunning architecture and interiors of the buildings.
Every single room or hallway I set foot in was a unique experience. A stunning blend of ornate detail, bold colors, painted murals on the ceiling, mosaic floors, and marble columns. The most awe-inspiring room of all is the incredible Winter Garden. Topped by a dome made of copper and wrought iron, this peaceful garden is filled with tall palms, a soothing fountain, and lush greenery that lines the pathways. I could have relaxed here on a bench or nearby at the Cafe Glyptotek which overlooks the Winter Garden all day.
Day or night, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek is a museum to be treasured and appreciated, room by room. It’s open later than most other Copenhagen museums and it was a real treat to have nearly the whole museum to myself at night.
Tivoli Gardens
It wouldn’t be a proper visit to Copenhagen without visiting the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world. Festively decorated for Christmas, I walked through this winter wonderland one night and took in the sights and sounds of Tivoli Gardens. I opted not to go on any rides and enjoyed browsing through some of the really nice shops where I picked up some lovely new earrings and this brass candleholder from Ferm Living.
Strøget
Take a walk down the world’s longest pedestrian street. This popular car-free shopping district is always pretty busy but rightfully so! You’ll find many shops and cafes along this street and it’s so charming when it’s all decked out for Christmas. Even if you’re not a big shopper, I highly recommend taking a stroll along Strøget. Since it’s r
Take a day trip to Malmö, Sweden
You can read all about my time in Sweden in this detailed post about getting to Malmö and what to see and do there. It’s such a charming city just 30 minutes from Copenhagen.
Go for a historic walk
Speaking of great streets to go for a stroll, Copenhagen truly has some of the most charming historic streets I’ve ever seen. Go for a walk along Magstræde and Snaregade, two of Copenhagen’s oldest streets. These colorful buildings date back to the 1700s and are the perfect capture for a Copenhagen postcard picture.
I also fell in love with Nørregade and the narrow streets around the former Sankt Nikolaj Kirke (Saint Nicholas Church) which is now the Nikolaj Contemporary Art Center. During the evening, the warm glow from the homes light up the streets beautifully, leaving you with such a
Nyhavn
Last but certainly not least is the iconic 17th-century waterfront and canal lined with colorful buildings. I went early in the morning on a crisp November day and I was just about the only person there enjoying the view other than a few passersby. So, if you’re willing to go during the chillier months, you’ll get a much quieter and more personal experience in Copenhagen.
My time in Copenhagen was incredible. It’s a city whose culture and lifestyle speak to my soul. I can’t wait to return one day soon. Until then, I’ll be posting more about my time in Copenhagen and why I recommend it so much.
If you’re heading to Copenhagen soon, let me know! And f
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